Redken 5th Avenue NYC is a well known fixture on the global fashion week circuit, marrying its best hair fashion stylists with a bevy of leading designers on the catwalks of the world’s fashion capitals. So when it was time for Sydney to join its fashionista sisters at Rosemount Australian Fashion Week, team Redken were there en mass.
First cab off the fashion rank was Bec & Bridge, where the models looked glamazon sexy with a rock chick vibe. Hair director Alex Grahl created masses of waves moving around the face, framing the eyes and cheekbones and modernised with tons of texture. Using Redken Spray Starch, she created s-waves using a medium flat iron. “We created the curls vertically,” Alex explains, “curling once, taking it out and then curling in the opposite direction to create what is called Marcel curls, which gives a soft, almost finger wave feeling. We also used an off-centre part, moving away from the centre, asymmetrical styles of past seasons. Redken Urban Experiment Wool Shake, a texture spray with a matte finish, gave the hair volume and movement. It was an almost bed hair look that is raw and unfinished.” Alex worked his charm on the models’ long, loose, wavy locks for the Karla Spetic show too, adding a little more polish and shine this time in what was hailed as one of the most wearable collections of the week.
Modern interpretations of the Marcel wave were also a hot look at RAFW, as seen at the Arnsdorf show created by hair director Richard Kavanagh. Richard touched on 1940s elegance and revisited the style as seen at the Proenza Schouler S/S 09 RTW collection. “By leaving the ends straight and creating random sized, s-shaped waves; the look is given a modern context,” he explains. “The loose fly away texture makes the hair look light and optimistic.” Richard browdried the hair using Redken Satinwear 02 to create shine and to protect from heat, then parted the hair over the left eye and swept it back towards the nape and behind the right ear. He then bent the hair flat and applied flat irons to create an S-shape, breaking up the texture with his fingers and finishing with Redken Workforce 09.
Carl Reeves from Melbourne’s Mieka Hairdressing is one of the new breed of session stylists who does rockin’ good hair mixed with his own unique fashion sensibility. Originally from New Zealand, Carl channeled his dark side when creating the hair for Alpha 60’s ‘Fallen’ collection on day two, softening 90s heroin chic with brush-out textured movement, just as if the models were falling down the runway. Opening the show was superstar 90s uber model Emma Balfour, the original face of heroin chic, who looked amazing more than 15 years down the track. Carl used Redken Touch Control to build tons of foundation, grit and starchiness in the hair and to help achieve the windswept ethereal floatiness in the back of the hair and finished with Redken 09 Workforce for seamless control and hold.
Various takes on the classic French roll were hot news at RAFW, including Lorna Evan’s dishevelled version at the Ready to Wear #1 group show on day one with designers Annah Stretton, Pizzuto and Su Design. “It’s all about modern texture,” Lorna says, “mixing structured shape with a messed up finished – more of a ‘just rolled out of bed’ look. I wanted to create a modern version of a classic silhouette, something that you could still wear walking down the street.” Her secret weapons to achieve this style? Redken Spray Starch 15 and a handful of hot rollers. The next day at RTW #2 featuring cool labels Artsu, St Augustine Academy and [un]Naked, Lorna decided on another up-do that was both classic and edgy. Sexy with a 70s vibe, the look was a teased ponytail that had been pinned into a soft bun - not too retro, but very wearable.
With his Scottish lilt and gentlemanly manner, session supremo Kenneth Stoddart is not only one of fashion week’s most familiar faces, he’s also one of the most experienced. For years Kenneth has held a highly coveted place on Guido Palau’s session team for the European designer collections in Milan and Paris, and he delivered his beautiful, effortless style for the Kate Sylvester show to delighted audiences on day three at RAFW. Simple and wearable, the Kate and Kenneth combo was a big hit, channeling a kind of Katharine Hepburn, 50’s movie star vibe that was natural and softly dishevelled. “It’s a young, cool and effortless style,” quips Kenneth. “We used Redken for Men Bulk Up Spray to thicken the hair, a little Redken Clear Moisture Instant Polishing Prep at the beginning and, once hair was dry, we used Redken Outshine 01, which also adds texture. The hair was pulled back at the temples and secured at the crown with pins.”
Over at Lisa Ho, the inspiration for the hair and beauty palette was a glamorous, sexy woman – a jetsetting traveller. A tad late 70’s disco and very expensive and adventurous, the models sported beautiful copper gold eyes and coral gold shimmering cheekbones, with a hint of gold in the centre of the rich chocolate lips, thanks to MAC makeup supremo Linda Jefferyes. The hair was the luxurious mane of a woman in control, a cross between 1940s and the late 70s. Kenneth applied mousse to dry hair and used a ¾ inch tong. He pinned the hair and allowed it to cool, then brushed it through once it was set, blowing out the hair at the roots and brushing it underneath. His products of choice? Redken Workforce 09 for pliable hold and Redken Touch Control 05 to add texture.
When it comes to understated, Vogue Nationale’s Todd Arndt is just about as laid back as they come. And the big guy from Brisbane teamed up with edgy designer label TV to showcase his take on the big easy. Todd says his brief was to not go too over the top, so he kept it raw, with loads of natural texture, a centre part and let his hands do the talking. The result is simple and chic, almost as if the models had done their hair themselves.
Todd also directed hair for the Sarah Phillips show on day four of RAFW, where the look was clean with a grungy edge. “Because we were working with multiple textures in the clothing,” explains Todd, “we incorporated this layering into the hair, working with wet/dry and slick shine/not washed. It was all about contrasting shine with matte and natural with slicked. We used Redken Stand Tough as we wanted a gel that would really stay strong. We worked this into the hair in sections, slicking it back across the head and finishing at the nape. We left the bottom of the hair natural and finished it off with Redken Vinyl Glam 02 at the end for intense shine.”
Making it a hat-trick for Vogue Nationale for the week, day five saw Todd and team tackle the Magdalena Velevska show, where the look was also a blend of slick texture and raw ends. Models sported a low side part, then the hair was gelled and slicked back over the top, in contrast to the base, which was left dry and tucked under at the back, with natural loose tendrils escaping randomly. An undone updo, inspired by Guido Palau’s work on the Bottega Veneta Fall 09 European collection, Todd used classic barrel rolls, reminiscent of the 1940s war-time beauties, but brought them into the present day by contrasting textures and finishes into the look. His products of choice? Redken Touch Control 05 for extra grip and fullness and Redken for Men Grip Tight Molding Gel to help shape and style the quiff.
At Ready to Wear #3, all eyes were on the hot bodies strutting down the runway in amazing swimwear from designers including White Sands, Kini Bikini and April Marie. Hair Director Wayne Friend created hair that was sexy, natural and soft for his bronzed bikini babes, with luscious San Tropez inspired locks packed with movement, body and shine. Key for these sexy locks was plenty of root lift for extra bounce – Wayne recommends Redken Blown Away 09 when blowdrying and then finish with a light mist of Redken Vinyl Glam 02 for all over shine.
Group shows can often be challenging for hair directors, as each designer has their own vision of what the finished look should be. However Wayne kept everyone happy at the TAFE NSW Innovators show on day four of RAFW with his own sophisticated take on a catwalk classic. “We needed a versatile style to complement the four different designers,” says Wayne. “So we decided on a clean and achievable look that was high off the neck and face.” Wayne pulled the hair back in a traditional sleek high ponytail shape and created a loose, soft loop – part updo, part ponytail – finishing with Redken Workforce 09 for a medium hold that still gave plenty of bounce.
Designers Leigh Schubert, Nicolangela, Gina Kim, Eduardo Calucag and White Kitten were the headliners for RTW #4 and hair director Maria Ardino kept the hair fresh and romantic, with plenty of movement and shine and a tousled texture that wasn’t too perfect. Hair had either a centre part with loose curls and waves falling around the face, or was loosely tied back in a low ponytail. Maria’s product of choice for this look was Redken Fabricate 03 for heat protection and to create a raspy texture. “Using hot irons, create a flat curl by bending the mid-lengths and keeping the ends straight and flat,” she explains. “This creates a more modern, irregular curl shape rather than a traditional, bouncy curl. Pin curls to the scalp to set and cool, however leave the ends out so they stay straight.”
Using her trademark feminine styling once again for the New Generation group show on the final day of RAFW, Maria Ardino revived 1940’s glamour to create soft curls with a heavy dose of old school Hollywood shine. Designers on show included Flannel, Stand, Nana Judy, Miss Unkon, By Weave, Zaicek and Love From Lucy. And the hair? Parted to the side with loose ringlets framing the models’ angelic faces and bouncing about in unison, held in place by Redken Workforce 23. The classic feminine hair was further enhanced with eye-catching head pieces of floral, gem stone, and luscious fabric head dresses.