RUNWAY.

RAFW 2010: THE VERDICT.

Australian Fashion Week celebrated its 15th year in 2010 – and did it go off with a bang? Many a fashionista will say nay to that question, as the overall vibe was a lot more sedate than previous years; a direction that oft occurs in tough economic times. Was it a lack of innovation or did designers just play it safe and create with their heads rather than their hearts? Call it what you may, however this scribe thinks that 2010 will be remembered for having some of the most wearable garments seen in many AFW years. Which could well translate to my very own fashion economic crisis… By Jenny Burns

Sixty-three shows were on the RAFW schedule, a lineup that was noticeably absent of many of our homegrown big guns – Akira, Sass & Bide, Willow, and Josh Goot to name a few. However of the designers that did show, most of their collections well and truly hit a big S (well, two actually) – Solid and Saleable – although there were a couple of bloggers ranking the shows in yawns rather than stars. Manners indeed…

The RAFW program also lacked the usual lineup of fresh, young, on-the-money talent, who provide their fair share of wow factor – but this year that was more sparkler than a display of fireworks. Yet in saying that, there were some moments of fashion brilliance, as well as outstanding hair and makeup that commanded our full attention whilst strutting down the catwalks.

So who saved the day? Well, there were a few shows that not only lived up to their brilliance from last year – but actually surpassed it. Young designer Dion Lee is one such man, who was the star of RAFW in 2009 with his asymmetric tailoring and attention to detail. He moved up in the world this year from his debut at last year’s Kings Cross underground carpark showing, this time choosing Sydney Opera House as his venue. And rather than be drowned by the splendour of the city harbour, his collection shone brilliantly; a stunning juxtaposition of structured tailoring combined with soft knots, draping and pleating as well as ultraviolet Rorschach inkblot prints.

Speaking of draping and pleating, these particular trends that were strongly evident at the Paris and Milan shows last September and October definitely made a statement at RAFW this year – in almost every designer’s collection. So did leather, generally mixed with the aforementioned softer fabric treatments as originally exhibited by Phoebe Philo at Celine, who definitely provided the most ‘inspiration’ for the week. Collections by Friedrich Gray, Therese Rawsthorne, Flannel and Bassike were the best in this department. Cut-outs were also a strong feature across many collections including Zimmerman, Ellery, Ginger & Smart and naturally, Dion Lee. Laser cutting on garments is like that saying about the little boy – when he was good, he was very, very good, but when he was bad he was horrid. Done well, as per Lee, the look is sexy and even perfectly ventilated (good for summer), displaying the bits that look good and covering those that aren’t meant to be on show for mere mortals outside the runway. However when you start slashing under arms and around the pelvis, the question of wearability comes into play – not to mention the exposure of body parts that are accustomed to being concealed. It’s enough to make you break out into a sweat, regardless of the built in air-conditioning vents!

We’ve talked about the fashionistas’ favourite showstopper for the week, Dion Lee; then there’s that other one, Romance Was Born. It was another of the week’s most anticipated shows based on the spectacles of the previous two years, and designers Anna Plunkett and Luke Sales did not disappoint with their Renaissance Dinosaur collection. The show was running hideously late (we’re talking 11.15pm kick-off) however the wait was worth it when the OTT theatrical show kicked off in a kaleidoscope of riotous colour, intricate prints, magical detail and hair and makeup that blew everyone’s mind. There were unicorns, Harajuku girls, a tyrannosaurus, bats, even an erupting volcano dress – all met with oohs and aahs and grins and applause from the packed crowd. After all, who doesn’t love a show? Not sure who wears Romance gear, but believe me, that’s the last thing on your mind when you witness a spectacle like that!

There were some other ‘big’ shows throughout the week, none more so than that of Alex Perry – and we’re talking BIG. There was big hair by Renya Xydis, a big crowd of 1,500, a big runway of about 350m, big shoes, big makeup, big skirts and more tulle, sequins and Botoxed bits than you’d find on a Logies red carpet. In fact, most of Perry’s loyal followers and celebrity starlets were in the front row to support the designer that gives them curves like no other, including Sophie Falkiner, KAK, Terry Biviano and Erika Heynatz, scattered amidst various football players, European businessmen and apparently the odd underground figure, so I heard whispers. My favourite moment was when the bronzed designer himself led his bevy of models down the monstrosity of a runway with a Blue Steel strut that deserves a place in Zoolander 2. Solid Gold.

Anyway, I’ll take my tongue out of my cheek and get onto the subject of hair and makeup highlights at RAFW – and there were plenty of those. Overall, there was huge diversity in the hair styling this year, although crimping and quiffs were at the top of the list in various shapes and sizes. I thought the makeup at RAFW was outstanding this year – from the hugely talented M.A.C staple artists such as Natasha Severino, Amber D, Linda Jefferyes, Sam Correy, Liz Kelsch and the fabulous Nicole Thompson (the only person I know who can have pink hair and eyebrows and still look amazing) – through to the Napoleon Perdis team, who really upped the ante this year and produced some beautiful faces, perhaps inspired by their fearless leader who was in the prep tents working away alongside them instead of hanging out with celebs in Hollywood.

That sexy and very clever session stylist Jon Pulitano had a big eight shows during RAFW, representing both Redken 5th Avenue NYC and Cloud Nine, including Therese Rawsthorne, Friedrich Gray, Camilla and Marc, ksubi, Seventh Wonderland and the stunning towering infernos at Konstantina Mittas. Having just returned from Europe working on Guido Palau’s team, Jon just keeps getting better and better.

Team ghd had a really strong presence at RAFW as usual – and honestly, what a talented bunch these guys really are. Styling for ghd were Sophie Roberts, Alan White, Jayne Wild and Renya Xydis, who collectively created some of the best hair of the week. Renya directed hair for three shows: Alex Perry, where it was all about height, haute and lots of hairspray; masses of sexy tousled waves at Little Joe Woman and one of the standouts of the week, the primitive braiding at Kirrily Johnston’s Brave New World show. Renya and Kirrily have worked together for a long time and when you get two artists who are on the same wavelength when it comes to a vision, the results are truly amazing.

Spunky session gal Sophie Roberts, who could easily be mistaken for one of the models backstage, is always uber busy during fashion week and this year was no exception with seven shows on her schedule. Sophie went side-slicked and sci-fi at Ellery, transcendent and shiny at Ginger & Smart, clean and simple at Zimmerman, did a loose curly updo at Anna & Boy and stayed long and straight at Dion Lee, keeping the tops of the models’ hair slicked back and painted white, thereby adding a touch of futuristic texture.

Jayne Wild’s messy topknot at Ruby Smallbone was soft and effortless, a bit like Jayne really. She kept a similar vibe at Nookie, where the look was all about sexy beach girls that were a bit bohemian and a bit tough at the same time. Hair was kept long and textured and aerated beautifully as the models strutted the runway. Alan White’s ‘cyberbilies’ at Lucette sported rockabilly quiffs at the front and long textured locks at the back with a wet look finish – totally cool and modern. In complete contrast, his sophisticated styling at Manning Cartell was so simple and clever, it had all the gals in the audience lining up to take a look at the week’s best hair accessory – a large multi-sphere earring – that Alan entwined in his low ponytail with the centre part. Brilliant!

Joico once again brought out to RAFW one of their favourite creative ambassadors, Canadian Lance Blanchette, who directed hair for Camilla and Nicola Finetti. At Camilla, the vibe was about masses and masses of crimped locks and feathered extensions, a look that was stunning on the blondes in particular as they cascaded down the runway. The texture was divine, feminine and fluffy and completely aerated. By way of absolute contrast, Lance created one of the week’s most stunning updo’s – a sophisticated, elevated French roll that screamed glamour and class like no other. And with a polished finish that complemented Finetti’s couture perfectly, it was a beautiful moment.

Goldwell and KMS also had a presence at RAFW, featuring some of their best stylists including Shane Henning, Greg Murrell, Lee Preston, Wayne Chappell and Sharon Blain. Shane’s vision for the hair at Bianca Spender was part ethereal wood nymph and part sci-fi, complete with braids, coloured wefts and long tousled texture. Our own queen of the up-do Sharon Blain did not disappoint at Rachel Gilbert, with a classic chic bun gone modern thanks to some serious dark eyebrows courtesy of Napoleon Perdis. At Bec & Bridge, Wayne opted for a dishevelled centre-part ponytail with tons of matte dry texture that transformed a classic into something that was decidedly edgy.

It was a true Kiwi collaboration at Stolen Girlfriends Club, one of NZ’s hottest young labels showing for the first time at RAFW. With Amber Dreadon from M.A.C on makeup and Ryder’s Greg Murrell tending to the models’ tresses, the vibe at this off-site show was really cool and laidback. Hair was long, a bit grungy and textured but a bit polished too, making this whole ‘girls with the band’ look both chic and totally wearable. Over at Aurelio Costarella, long-time friend and Hair Director Lee Preston proved again how a relationship between a hairdresser and a designer, if on the same wavelength, can turn dreams into magic. Lee’s hair was both chic and modern, slicked at the top and pulled into a loose, crimped mass of texture at the nape, complete with tendrils escaping everywhere. Perth-based Aurelio and Lee really are a couple of quiet, humble hair and fashion heroes who never believe in blowing their own trumpets, yet produce work of absolute beauty. Another highlight.

Freelance session stylist Daren Borthwick lent his expertise to a couple of friends during RAFW, including La Biosthetique at Christopher Esber and Aveda for Bassike. Esber is being hailed in some circles as the new Dion Lee and although he certainly wasn’t in that radar, the young designer produced an interesting show that tagged him as a name to watch. On the hair front, Daren’s styling was simple yet effective – long and textured at the back and combed slick and up at the sides and front. Over at Bassike, hair had a low side part and was slicked back tightly on one side, then tucked under into a round bob shape on the other. Original and unique, it was one of the more interesting ‘do’s of the RAFW week.

Also waving the Aveda flag was Oscar Oscar Salon stylist Paloma Rose Garcia, who created a style fusion combining French rolls with textured backcombing and soft rockabilly quiffs for the debut show of Sydney designer Spencer Webber for his new label Phos Phoro. “I wanted the hair to be modern, slightly androgynous and directional, but still quite soft so that it suited the fashion direction of Spencer’s collection,” Paloma said.

TIGI’s Grant Norton collaborated with New Zealand legends Zambesi at RAFW and created a hair look that was textured, cool and perfectly suited the moody styling that Zambesi echoes so well. The collection had a distinct Amish vibe, so Grant matched the hair with soft waves combined with raw matte texture and then finished it off with stocking-like skullcaps. Along with Amber D’s stunning face palette, the look was totally edgy and cool. A favourite.

At Sabatini White, L’Oréal Professionnel Hair Director Luke Davis kept the hair soft, fresh and feminine. Angelic yet kind of sexy too, the models’ hair was filled out with loads of extensions and incorporated three textures – smooth and soft in the top lengths, beautiful waves in the middle and brushed out ruffled ends. One of the definite ‘I want it’ styles of the week.

Speaking of ‘I want it’ hair, L’Oréal Professionnel maestro Brad Ngata also had one of those moments at White Sands with his sexy shipwrecked models, all sun-kissed and gorgeous with their beautifully unkept hair. Brad created the perfect beach hair, but still ensured it was really full and textured – and the result was amazing. At the opposite end of the scale, Brad’s work at the TAFE NSW Innovators show was all about the textural elements of a braid with a high-gloss finish – a clean up-do that was young and fresh. For Brad At Dhini, we saw a perfectly classic round up-do channeling an India empress; at Gail Sorronda, we witnessed an array of amazing silhouettes complete with hairpieces to reflect her uniquely diverse collection. There was a strict, firm braid through the centre with plenty of shine that was framed with a soft, crimped, floss-like texture.

I know we’ve touched on this show already, but on a final note, we can’t bid RAFW adieu without saluting the work of Fudge’s Lores Giglio and M.A.C maestro Natasha Severino at Romance Was Born. The theatrical extravaganza with the theme ‘Renaissance Dinosaur’ saw a melding of prehistoric creatures with Elizabethan shapes and styling. Set within an incense-filled hall at Hogwarts-like Sydney University, the show was as far removed from Harry and Hermoine as could possibly be, opened by Amazonian über model Alexandra Agoston O’Connor with her thigh-high gold boots and black mesh bodysuit embroidered with a spangly gold cross. The RWB signature fantastical creations emerged down the decorative runway, with wildly colourful prints and sequins, talon length nails and bejeweled faces and headpieces sparkling with elaborate jewels. Lores and her 25-strong Fudge team wrapped and wove scales and horns into the models’ hair as well as hairpieces, extensions, jewellery and crystals. Some of the models were in hair and make-up for more than seven hours to achieve each amazing look – but the result was spectacular.