ECO CHIC (Fashion).
THE FASHION-CONSCIOUS GROW A CONSCIENCE.
We’re getting good at the Eco Chic thing, yes? Particularly when it comes to fashion, there’s such a buzz about environmentally friendly practices permeating the industry that it makes us feel all warm and fuzzy just thinking about it. So we don’t feel so bad about hijacking this do-gooder column for just one issue, because there’s another area of responsible fashion that needs your attention. This one relates not to Mother Earth, but to our fellow mankind.
It’s about ethics people; common decency, respect and a fair go for all. We’re talking about labour standards across the textiles and fashion industry. Perhaps it’s because we think it doesn’t relate to us here in ‘modern’ Australia, or maybe we’re just blissfully ignorant, but the truth of the matter is that not all businesses in this great land of Oz provide their workers with adequate pay or decent working conditions. Without further adieu, please welcome Ethical Clothing Australia. Fresh from showing at Rosemount Australian Fashion Week, this organisation is gaining swift momentum, as it crusades to gather up brands, put them through their paces and finally brand them with the Ethical Clothing Australia logo that proves to the world that their practices are human-friendly and their products Australian-made. The latest fashion houses to proudly sport this logo just happened to kick off the RAFW schedule on Monday – Lisa Ho and Ginger & Smart. Both labels now sit smugly (and rightly so!) alongside others such as Collette Dinnigan, Veronika Maine, Cue, Bardot and Jets.
Once the wave of RAFW madness finally subsided, we called on Ethical Clothing Australia’s National Coordinator, Emer Diviney, to give us all the info straight up about what they do and how we can help.
culture // What does it mean to be an ‘ethical brand’?
Emer // Our focus at Ethical Clothing Australia is on labour standards, specifically within the Australian-based supply chains of the participating brands.
There are obviously many aspects to being ‘ethical’ and varying degrees of how far certain ideas can be implemented so we avoid giving any type of ‘blanket endorsement’ to a brand for its ethical practices across the board. But we are happy to endorse, from a labour standards perspective, the particular garments that carry the Ethical Clothing Australia trademark.
When consumers see the Ethical Clothing Australia trademark on a garment, they can be confident that it was made in Australia and that everyone involved in its production received fair wages and worked in decent conditions.
There are many facets to Ethical Clothing Australia – as well as the fashion industry, you cover businesses in areas such as uniforms, sportswear and manufacturing. Are there specific goals associated with each area, or do you have just one message to spread?
Any business that manufacturers textile, clothing or footwear products in Australia is eligible to apply for accreditation with Ethical Clothing Australia, so yes, we deal with a wide spectrum of businesses in the industry; from factories that specialise in industrial wet weather gear to brands on the catwalks of Australian Fashion Week.
The process of developing the organisation’s name and the certification trademark relied heavily on extensive consultation with the industry’s various components. We wanted to make sure that the logo could sit as comfortably on a high-end fashion garment from the likes of Ginger & Smart or Collette Dinnigan, as it could on a school uniform from Poppets.
Whilst our core message to consumers – support local brands committed to ensuring fair pay and decent conditions – is fairly universal, we’ve tried to ensure that the actual accreditation system and processes cater for businesses of various sizes and structures.
When we see the term ‘Australian-made’ on labels, it makes us feel better about the purchase. Can we assume this is an ‘ethical’ purchase?
Although the term ‘sweat shop’ is often associated with countries such as China and India, the reality is that within the Australian fashion and clothing industry there are many businesses that operate with little regard for even the basic labour laws and standards. Many clothing workers in Australia, particularly home-based workers, are paid as little as three or four dollars an hour and do not receive entitlements such as superannuation or annual leave. So ‘Australian-made’ is by no means a guarantee that a garment has been made ethically. We exist to help local clothing businesses ensure they are doing the right thing and also provide consumers with the ability to make an informed choice.
What was the purpose of your involvement at Rosemount Australian Fashion Week? What kind of response did you receive?
Ethical Clothing Australia got involved with Australian Fashion Week to raise our profile within the industry and to let brands know that we’re here to help.
The response was great. I think there’s a growing awareness that the market for ethical and sustainable products isn’t some sort of flash in the pan trend, but is rapidly growing and potentially lucrative. You know, people are looking at the success of various ethical trading initiatives and fair trade movements in the US, UK and Europe and starting to wonder what’s happening at a local level. So when they hear about us and the services we provide I’ve found that brands are very interested about how they can ensure they are following best practice models and how that can be communicated to consumers.
How important is it to have high-end fashion houses become accredited ethical brands?
Having brands like Lisa Ho, Ginger & Smart and Cue embracing this sort of third-party verification system is great as it starts to have a snow-balling effect for the profile of the program and it also provides consumers with a greater level of opportunity to get behind accredited labels.
I think our recent high-profile accreditations, as well some more that we have in the pipeline, signals that this is the future for forward-looking brands. They know it is a decent value-add for their existing markets and they can see that early adopters will also be well placed to capture the growing ethical market.
Are consumers catching on... is the ethical message front of mind yet?
As part of the market research that we commissioned as part of our branding research, a number of focus groups were held including for consumers. It found that when provided with a choice between two similar garments, consumers consistently favoured the more ethical option and would even be willing to pay more for the purchase.
So although I don’t think the majority of consumers walk around with such issues at the front of their mind all the time, testing has shown that if provided with an easily identifiable ethical option, they will preference the product that has ethical credentials.
What is your main message for consumers?
Our core message to consumers is they can make a difference by using their purchasing power to support local brands committed to producing ethical clothing and fashion.
It is early days but we hope that in the not too distant future our trademark – our stitched ‘e’ logo, will do the talking. ‘Ethical Clothing Australia’, it says it all really.
As well as the purchasing power, there are a few other ways you can flex those philanthropic muscles. Don’t be afraid to speak up and encourage your favourite brands to become accredited. While we’re not in the business of promoting picketing and petition signing, emails, letters and the odd moment on your soapbox while you’re in-store certainly wouldn’t go astray. If you’re a little less extroverted though, there’s one other thing you can do that we think is oh so nifty; Ethical Clothing Australia has fashioned the ‘Change-room Calling Card’. It’s a business card that you can discreetly leave in change rooms, hand to the gal behind the counter or post to brands, all in the name of showing you want to support ethical local products. You can download the Change-room Calling Card from the Ethical Clothing Australia website, or order printed copies from their head office. And since you’re all such social media addicts, make sure you befriend them on Facebook and follow them on Twitter, and sign up to have their E-newsletter pop into your inbox so you can stay on top of the latest brands that have grown a conscience. So go on, we’re giving you permission to get power-happy… let it go to your head!
For info on all of the above and to show your support, hit on www.ethicalclothingaustralia.org.au.